Customize Your Own Jacket

It is never easy and it’s one of the first challenges that we can meet face as entering the field of custom-made: we are often overwhelmed by the range of possibilities, both in terms of fabrics, Proportions and finishes.

So, we often arrive not enough prepared and especially without a clear idea of ​​what we really want, and everything that goes with it: in what context we will wear it, with what type of clothing, under what temperature etc.

I present the blow all the reasoning that I could perform to choose my first half-measure jacket, by analyzing all the choices I could perform as well on the fabric, as finishes and proportions.

I Presentation of The Brand Blandin & Delloye

1 History

I had already tested this brand in September 2015 with our colleagues BonneGueule (can be had you read the article that matter). If you discover the sign: it was founded by Cédric and Charles in 2011, who had begun to make costumes for their friends as they go back and forth in SHOPAREVIEW.
They decided to do their job by following a real training to measure.

The first shop, Rue de Palestro, opens in 2014 and the clothes are made in Romania, in a factory that I will not mention but that some of you already know well given the number of brands for which it produces. (But it’s a good point here, the value for money is unbeatable and it allows access to many tissues, especially Vitale Barberis).

The brand has since developed well and opened a second store at 12 rue de Tocqueville (I met several of you at the time of its inauguration).

I had already made a formal cross-dress at home with which I was very happy: I accepted with joy the proposal to test a more casual piece, in order to see more in detail what the sign could offer me.

2 The Challenge Of This Test: a Casual Piece To Get Out Of The Business Suit And The Wedding Costume

One of the big problems that I see with half-measure and tailor-made in general is that it is used by most men only for wedding suits and sometimes for business suits In eternal costumes two buttons blue or gray).

Few men have, for the time being, got into the habit of doing so also for trousers and jackets, whereas this option allows a perfect cut, a real quality of manufacture and a wider choice of fabric. It was still unthinkable a few years ago but brands such as Blandin & Delloye allow precisely equivalent budget to have a piece in half measure of a quality at least similar to what can be found in ready to wear.

It then remains to properly target needs to make parts that will fit well in our wardrobe that will allow new outfits and we can bring several years.
In my case, I had not yet summer jacket . And I would not be content that a simple portable jacket was only when it’s hot, but of a more versatile jacket whose port may extend to mid-season, from mid-March to late October.

We started to look at the fabric.

 Ii choose a half-year jacket

1 choice of fabric: about dormeuil

I had already talked about Dormeuil in one of the guides of the suit last year: it is probably one of the most integrated houses is given that it handles all the wiring to confection and distribution. (It does not manage farms, whose diversity is still quite impressive).

Creating Dormeuil dates back to Julius Dormeuil, including the idea is simply to import English fabrics in France: the brand develops International to reach Asia in 1905, embarking on sponsorship and In particular to develop the talking edge, a reference system now used for all rolls of fabrics.

The ready to wear (with a reputation for our Little dated days) meanwhile launched in 1957 with the name Guy Dormeuil, which later became Dormeuil (with 4 stores in Paris).

Over the years and the brand has continued to innovate with the launch of several original fabrics like Vanquish, the most expensive available only fabric of the world 300 years cuts, Exel, a pure wool with 20% elasticity but Without elastane, or Jade, a mixture between wool and jade.

If Italian spinners such as Cerruti or Vitale Barberis spin wool in ultra-pure Biella waters, Dormeuil’s fabrics are worked in Huddersfield and take advantage of the purity of Pennine’s waters to wash their fabrics: wool, silk , Cashmere, sometimes even vicuña.

The price range are generally well above those of most common mills as Vitale Barberis Canonico: what makes the difference is especially finishing. It lasts longer at Dormeuil and allows to have a more resistant material, silky and which takes better the light. A shorter finishing will give a drier and stiffer material. (It is ultimately very comparable to the tanning of a leather: the longer it is and made with quality materials, the more resistant the leather will be because it will be more fat and better nourished).

My Choice: A Fabric-Almost All Seasons With A Nice Texture

I chose a mixture 60% linen, 30% wool and 10% silk 220g with the aim of making a jacket of mid-season (and therefore not only summer, despite it being linen): I wanted some Light enough to wear in the summer (at 30 degrees maximum) but also heavy enough to have enough consistency in a mid-season outfit, underneath a winter coat or over a tweed vest (that ‘ Would not have been possible without a textured minimum material).
In short, it was a good compromise to have a material with character, but not wool (because textured wool is generally much heavier).

2 Presentation Of The Jacket

The brief was simple: a casual jacket to wear in summer and mid-season. Once the right material is chosen, we will focus on the finishes to remember to be in the right register.

Before

The reverse: we are in a register dressed but relaxed. I have opted for reversed points (which I suggest you avoid for very formal costumes, they are normally a sign of authority and reserved for the senior positions of a company).

The width is slightly oversize well proportioned setback would normally finish at half the shoulder line. We go here very slightly beyond, but without going into the extremes that can be seen in Pitti Uomo, which will be importable in a few years. (If my memories are good, we are here at 8 cm lap width).

The only fault of taste to avoid and which I see very often on the costumes, even half-measures, are the reverses too fine.

Shoulders

Even if the rendering of the material can let it think, it is not at all on a jacket of light summer and not doubled: the material is a little heavy and the jacket is completely covered. The result is quite structured, with a light padding on the shoulder and a discreet cigarette.

Back

The back is not particularly close to the body: the idea is not necessarily to wear the jacket only over a shirt, but also over a vest or a fine mesh). We have planned a bit of ease. It was also necessary for this rather heavy jacket to remain portable during the summer.

Inside

Provided to respect certain criteria, one can afford more freedoms for a casual jacket, especially for interior finishes. I wanted something original, but without the end result being too busy.
Charles well understood my approach and was excellent advice to achieve a balanced result.

The pockets of the pockets are suddenly in a strong and affirmed Paisley pattern: the lining is thus more calm and plays more on the subtlety of the color (a very light gray) and on the material. It is not a viscose but a poplin of cotton, which allows a sacred comfort. (But which is slightly heavier and with a slightly tighter weave).

Other Finishes

That said casual jacket necessarily says flat pockets (which are usually rather wide, as is the case here). The buttons also go in the same way: I chose here buttons in light brown horns, a color well complementary to the green of the fabric.
If you’re not used to find this kind of combination, please consult my article on the choice of colors and the site colordb.com : it’s almost mathematical.

It needed a sober outfit to maintain a balance and emphasize the material and structure of the jacket: the shirt (from Première Manche) simply plays on a discreet little plaid pattern, the linen belt plays on the material and the Mix of colors and Soran pants (in cotton poplin, which is why it crumbles so easily) is more neutral and allows for more lightness here.

Conclusion

The jacket cost 665 euros (400 euros of assembly and 265 euros of fabric) for a very good level of manufacture and a qualitative and original fabric, with a personalization that goes all the same far enough. The average price of jackets at Blandin & Delloye is generally 350 to 450 euros.

Iii Test Of Blandin & Delloye Shirt

This shirt is much more classic and had been made in July 2015, a little after the costume. The specification was a little more classic: I needed a formal shirt, also portable without a tie and also portable in Cambodia (I was still not bad to go back at the time).

For the fabric I chose a reference with a rather high titration, and therefore finer threads and a fabric ultimately lighter: it was (in my memories) a 150/2.

Positioning And Value For Money

It is ultra correct since shirts are offered between 80 and 120 euros, with the fabric as the only variable. And needless to say that at 120 euros, you have a shirt with a much better fabric than many models at equivalent prices in the ready to wear.

Assessment after one year: despite a high titration, it rather tidy shock. I did indeed carry a lot in Cambodia and Korea at the beginning of the year when I gave him a lot of washes. There are no noticeable wear points.
Only problem: the buttonholes on the sleeves have less held up well. This is not really surprising because I constantly turn up my sleeves, and in addition this fabric is actually more fragile than a 100/2 or a more conventional 120/2. This is a problem that is rather recurrent and there are few marks to escape, unless the workshop makes a special effort to make an unbreakable buttonhole (in which case it is seen from the beginning and it gives a shirt where to put the buttons Becomes a showdown).

Shoulders

Since we are on half-measure, the shoulders are very clean and arrive at the level of the bone. The continuity of the patterns is well between the sleeves and the body of the shirt.

Back

The idea was obviously to have a shirt close to the body, but still a minimum of space (especially if it was to be worn in Cambodia). She is tight enough to draw a beautiful V in the back. I also chose not to put clamps (which could have eliminated the slight surplus of fabric at the bottom of the shirt).

Collar

I have opted for a small Italian collar, which allows me to have an intermediate gap ideal for a port without a tie: the French collar is a little too tight and rigid (and gives a much too formal in a casual outfit) And the cutaway collar is too far apart and does not fit the shape of my face.

The proportions are impeccable here and we see well the care given to the seams.

Finishes

One finds in the sleeves a capuchin leg with points tightened and well aligned and a reinforcement discreet and well finished.

Buttons

These are mother-of-pearl buttons with a simple cross button. Nothing to report on the front buttonholes of the shirt that have held very well so far.

 Style Advice

I had ordered this shirt to wear it in a formal dress, and in particular with the crossed suit that I had had to make: this combination stripes on stripes is possible thanks to the very different dimensions of the two motifs.

We can then add to this very strict mix a little what we want in terms of cravat by playing on color, texture or patterns.
Here are some examples with striped woolen ties, silk grenadine ties or knitted ties. The mixture stripes on stripes is quite serious, sober and formal, it allows precisely to let go to a lot of eccentricities on accessories like the tie.

Conclusion

Blandin & Delloye is probably one of the best quality / price ratios of the market in terms of making, available fabrics but also advice (I certainly will not have gone so far in personalizing the jacket without the suggestions of Charles, especially on Lining and contrast piping).

Do not hesitate to take the time to reflect carefully on what you want before going there and to bring for example some inspirations, that is what will allow you to optimize your session and have a result Really personal.

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