Note Benedict: Romain, editor at Modissimo, did us the honor of writing a series of articles on the guests fly high leather. He even asked leather professionals to ensure that every piece of information was accurate. It’s complete, educational, well written, and believe me, it’s content that will be a landmark in BG’s history!
The use of leather back to the origins of mankind: it was the raw material of which the men are served for clothing. But in ancient Egypt, leather became a noble material of the making.And it is still the case today: whether in the major brands of PAP or the most famous luxury designers like Hermès, the garment or the leather accessory are often the most beautiful, the most prized and … The most expensive. However you can imagine, as everywhere, there are random qualities of leather, including the price is not always a good indicator.
How can we see more clearly? What hides that can be found and how to recognize them? How to “measure” the quality of a leather? What cut choose for what purpose?
There is no question of pretending to have infused science… but thanks to the many professionals who have enlightened me, you will find some answers to the questions that arise on leather. Thank you to Patrick “Our site-created” and anonymous large luxury houses that have all been kind enough to give me their time and their knowledge.
How is this file organized? First, in the spirit BG, we start from the base: the different types of leather and tanning that exist. Then we will enter the heart of the matter: how to recognize a good leather, a few tips to navigate. Finally, we end with a small guide of the cuts that are regularly found to help you make your choice.
The types of leather and the various stages from manufacturing to manufacturing
Far from me the idea of amassing technical words barbants: the goal is, in coherence with the mind Good Mouth, to transmit the minimum required to choose knowingly.
There are as many leathers as animal species endowed with a skin, from the ostrich to the eel.Without listing them, here are the main families:
Animals with hair
- Lamb: the leather superstar. Often very soft and flexible, it is a thin skin with almost silky, very used to make clothing and some accessories like gloves for men. Check Plus-size-tips.com for plus size jackets.
- Veal: just as the lamb, it is flexible but tougher. A little rougher than his little friend, the calfskin is much used for accessories (shoes, wallets, bags, etc.).
- Sheep: it can be worked retaining its wool, which makes a very hot topic: it is then returned, ie that one manufactures clothing with wool inside and the skin with outside (this is called a shearling). When just a skin, we can make a similar use in lambskin: thin but very resistant.
- The goat: it is a durable leather widely used for the manufacture of sturdy bags or accessories. We begin to see it a bit in the ready to wear for its flexibility, because very thin.
- The cow: the leather adult cattle (cow, beef …). It is therefore more robust and more rigid than the calf , but also less silky.
- Buffalo: In perfect harmony with the image we can have of the beast, the leather is stiff and very robust . It is often used in upholstery or textile for jackets, but it is not a material that allows to work a silhouette near the body.
- Chamois, deer and antelope: The chamois is prized for shoes and jackets, often with anextremely soft. However, the antelope is less used because very difficult to work. Just to clarify, although it is still part of the term many sellers, the deer is a protected species which is no longer used.
- The crocs: Ascending order of use, there is the gharial, crocodile and alligator. They probably represent the materials most noble and most expensive. They are strong, and each room has a unique character because of the irregularity of the scales . Instead, the stomach will be used for its flexibility.
- Snakes: anaconda, cobra but mostly python are rare and sought materials. Used mainly in leather goods, we see more and more in the high-end ready-to-wear (Lanvin SS13, or recurring at Roberto Cavalli).
- Fish: if, if, for real! Fish leathers appear mainly in small leather goods : eel, salmon, shark or stingray (very expensive) …
Before closing this review of the main leather families, it seems appropriate to consider a less glamorous aspect: their origin. The python does not exist in breeding and must be cast out, the gharial is threatened with extinction, breeding conditions are not always shining … These rare and sought materials involve a more or less friendly trade-being of ‘animal.
The French, Italian or Spanish origin guarantees that the beast has not undergone treatments (too) violent, on the other hand know that the leather medium / low range often come from Bangladesh or India and there … I you Pass the details!
Benoît’s note: that’s why I encourage you not to buy a low-end leather jacket! One can tap on the use of the fur, but the tanning of the low-end leather is a real scourge, much more important. Not to mention water pollution …
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